January 20, 2021
We take you from being informed of what's going on in the world to being involved in making it better.
Morning, team. With the pandemic still raging, maybe you’re struggling to fill your weekends. Lucky for you, we’ve got some ideas. Get ready to get crafty.
Down the Rabble Hole: The Ethics of Upcycling
If you’ve ever created a Pinterest board or accidentally spent four hours scrolling TikTok, you know what upcycling is. For everyone else, it’s the act of taking discarded materials and giving them that King Midas touch to turn them into higher-value items. This can be done to just about anything, depending on how wild you’re willing to let your imagination run, and it isn’t to be confused with recycling, which breaks down materials to turn them into something else entirely.
Photos: @wornwear
Upcycling is most commonly seen in fashion, and rightfully so, since the average American throws out 70 pounds of textiles every year. The clothes that don’t end up in a landfill often land at thrift shops, and if said shops deem your Forever 21 neon crop top to be “unsellable,” your garbage bag of impulse purchases is shipped to developing countries. Those familiar with fast fashion know the irony here: the cheap clothes we’re all throwing out were originally made in these countries by workers subjected to poor conditions and toxic materials.
To fight this problem, people and companies everywhere are using their sewing machines as weapons against waste and making these unwanted clothes cherishable again. Clothing manufacturers like Levi’s and Patagonia are asking us to send our products back so they can be refurbished and given another life. Retail giants are debuting upcycled lines, like ASOS Reclaimed Vintage and Urban Renewal. One brand, The Big Favorite, was created to be fully circular, meaning their products were meant to come back to where they came from, like Homeward Bound for textiles. The kicker: they make underwear. That’s right people, there’s officially no excuse for any textile to ever be wasted again.
Photo: @thebigfavorite
We’re all about this no-garment-left-behind mentality, but we’d be remiss not to tell you that the ethics of upcycling have raised a few eyebrows. As loyal newsletter subscribers know, the TikTok trend, thrift flipping, where you take oversized garments and alter them to fit a smaller body, has perpetuated the idea that big bodies are bad and depletes the small amount of plus-sized options at thrift shops. Activists also argue that, while upcycling is a start to cleaning up the mess we’ve made of our planet, it does nothing to help ecosystems that manufacturing textiles destroy for human profit. Further, flipping a sweater to sell for more money isn’t necessarily an act of sustainability, but another act for profit. If you’re looking to get that bread, then get it. If you’re looking to reduce your environmental impact, make sure you’re upcycling to breathe life into a garment, not just create more clothing to collect in someone's closet.
Photo: @deadly_denim_
Photo: @wornwear
Upcycling is still by far the lesser of all of the garment industry evils, and while being mindful of the issues above, it is a sustainable and ethical way to be fashionable. So, next time you want to throw out or donate your clothes, try upcycling them instead. And the step after that? Start investing in the kind of timeless, capsule wardrobe that will keep you from ever wanting to throw out your clothes, period.
— by Sabrina Hunt